A Mad Dash in the Rain: Paris Latin Quarter #TuesdayTravels

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Rebecca arranged for us to have the services of a Paris greeter to help us get oriented. We were contacted by a nice gentleman names Jean-Jacques who offered to walk us around the Latin Quarter.

walking in the rainSince it was our first full day in Paris, it was raining, and we weren’t familiar with the area, we took a cab to Luxembourg Gardens to meet Jean-Jacques promptly at 9AM. He led us on a mad dash in the rain through the Sorbonne District, an interesting area with lots of older buildings.

Sorbonne

Universites de Paris aka the Sorbonne


In fact, this is one of the oldest sections of the city since this was the area settled by the Romans. We saw two Medieval shop signs–a large key and a tree–representing a locksmith and a woodworker? Lumberyard maybe. The last one had me puzzled so if anyone has any ideas, chime in!

We could see the Pantheon, formerly the Church of Ste. Genevieve, in the distance. We saw some nice courtyards and lots of interesting doorways, including carriageways with large double doors. Jean-Jacques said this was a popular if not respectable section of the city in the 18th century. University areas are usually eclectic.

One of the more interesting places we stopped was the site of a Roman arena, now used as a playing field. We could see the stone bleachers where viewers sat and the caged areas below the bleachers where the wild beasts were kept. Now the cages are used to store folding chairs. Much safer but less interesting.

At 10:30AM we stopped for coffee and to rest our legs and feet. Jean Jacques was a marathon walker and I was often rushing to catch up after stopping to take a photo. Sadly, some of the photos didn’t come out because of rain drops on my camera lens. The rain slacked off while we were having coffee, so the rest of the walk was more pleasant.

After our walk, we took the Metro back to our hotel, the first of many trips, for lunch and a chance to rest out feet. I had salmon in sorrel sauce with basmati rice and it was delicious.

Next week, the Louvre, but watch for my report on the baking class we took after visiting the Latin Quarter. I’ll try to get it up tomorrow or Friday.

Linda

Ahoy! It’s Talk Like a Pirate Day!

Talk Like a Pirate Day bannerSept. 19 is the annual Talk Like a Pirate Day, so prepare to be boarded, or at least to hear Arrr! and Avast Me Hearties! and other pirate sayings.

Eighteenth century pirates now seem like colorful, fun-loving blokes, but historically speaking, the facts are much more serious. So I’m posting an article I wrote on the subject. And if you’re interested in my pirate romance, check out Marooned.

Marooned coverTreacherous Beauty: Piracy in the Bahamas, by Lyndi Lamont

No one can dispute the tropical beauty of the Bahama Islands, but the early history of the islands is filled with danger and treachery.

In 1492 the islands were discovered by Christopher Columbus who claimed them for Spain. Later Spaniards enslaved the native Lucayan people and transported them to work the gold and silver mines in Cuba and Hispaniola.

By the time the British arrived in the late 1670’s, the islands were no longer inhabited. A group of colonists settled on the island of Eleuthera, and a few moved on to New Providence, but most of the islands were left unsettled and provided a haven for pirates and privateers. The islands were close to the major trade routes and New Providence Island had a natural harbor that afforded a safe anchorage in which to hide. With its shallow waters and over 700 islands, the Bahamas provided a perfect environment for pirates to maneuver. Many hid their plunder in the islands’ limestone caverns.

Grand Bahama was considered perilous because of the reefs surrounding it. Pirates would chase merchant ships into the shallows where they foundered on the reefs and were easily plundered. In fact, “wrecking” remained a local occupation for some time. The inhabitants placed a lantern to lure ships close to shore so they could scavenge its cargo.

The resort city of Nassau, on New Providence Island, became notorious as a pirate haven. By 1710 the harbor was filled with ships, some of them rotting hulks that were destroyed after being emptied of their cargo. Contemporary accounts describe it as a ramshackle shanty town with no permanent buildings, just a dilapidated fort, a few wood huts, and a disreputable tent city where pirates could gamble away their plunder, get drunk, or get laid.

The islands were home to famous pirates such as Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard, Calico Jack Rackham, and the infamous female pirates Anne Bonny and Mary Read, who were members of his crew.

Blackbeard’s legend lives on as the most ferocious of pirates. A tall man, he had wild eyes, long, matted black hair and a matching beard which he braided. Before battle, he twisted pieces of fuse into his hair and lit them. With his face surrounded by smoke he was a fearsome sight. Teach was chosen as magistrate of what the pirates called their Privateers’ Republic, but in 1718 the British government sent Royal Governor Woodes Rogers, a former privateer, to the islands to end piracy in the Bahamas. Blackbeard was at sea at the time, so he made the Carolinas his main base until his death in November 1718 at the hands of the British navy. The leader of the British expedition, First Lieutenant Robert Maynard, later said that Blackbeard didn’t fall until he’d received at least five gunshots and twenty sword wounds. Blackbeard’s head was severed, though whether it happened during battle or afterward is not clear, and hung from the bowsprit of Maynard’s sloop to prove that the feared pirate was truly dead.

Calico Jack and Anne Bonny met in New Providence where he persuaded her to don men’s clothing and join him on his ship. (Women were banned from most pirate ships, hence the disguise.) Mary Read, who also dressed as a man, was on board, too. The two women became friends and were known to be fierce fighters. When Woodes Rogers’ men attacked Rackham’s ship in 1720, most of the crew were drunk, except for the two women who fought bravely. The entire crew was captured, tried in Jamaica and sentenced to death. Jack was hanged but the two women “pleaded their bellies”. Because of their pregnancies, the women were not sentenced to death. Mary died in jail of fever before giving birth. Anne’s fate is unknown, but there are rumors that she was eventually released and returned to her home in the Carolinas.

Woodes Rogers was successful in his attempt to end piracy in the Bahamas. In fact, immediately upon his arrival, he was met by a large group of pirates eager to swear loyalty to the crown in exchange for a pardon. Rogers eventually pardoned about 600 pirates. The hard cases like Calico Jack and Blackbeard were chased down and brought to justice.

By 1720 the Golden Age of Piracy was coming to an end. But like the beauty of the islands, tales of the daring pirates live on in legend.

© 2005 by Linda McLaughlin
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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